Re: Stoke -- and surf rage

An email to a friend learning to surf:

> I was really rude to this sweet Japanese woman
> who was just a little gunshy. I was so impatient with
> her - I think because she reminded me of how I was
> last year when I first started surfing.

Now you know the real power of surfing: dominating those in the lineup pecking order weaker than you. What I always find interesting -- and perhaps you've begun to notice this with yourself -- is how I figure out my place in the lineup almost as soon as I paddle out. Before even someone takes off on a wave many times. I've talked about this with my brother. You can just feel it. Somedays, you're the man -- the alpha ripper -- and get every good wave that comes through. Other days, it will be going off, and you know you won't get squat. It's on these days that I'll paddle off away from a pack just so I can get a wave. Then I'll notice some longboarder starting to paddle my direction three lifeguard towers down. And I just know, as soon as that motherfucker gets next to me, a good wave's going to come in and he's going to be in position to take it from me. Happens more than mere probability alone would allow.

On the other hand, you'll happy to know, these arrangements aren't fixed. When you get a good wave -- you can sense your status among the lineup flotsam rising. Another good wave and you're paddling around people for waves, giving hoots to other people as they're taking off, and (as you know) yelling at others when they get in your way. (Of course, you shouldn't yell at sweet little Japanese women.) If you want a real baboon-stress-hormone-rush, paddle out down at Newport Beach during the next fun swell.